Long considered the nec plus ultra of formal tailoring, RIVES now delivers a more casual reinterpretation for everyday wear, with volumes that have gained in allure and contemporaneity.
A look back at the history of a form that marked its time.
Invented at the end of the 19th century, the Double-breasted suit is a summer version of the British navy pea coat. This iconic double-breasted design was invented to enable sailors to button their jackets according to the direction of the wind.
From the 1930s onwards, the Double-breasted jacket began to be adopted in everyday life by radically opposed circles. On the British side, it became the prerogative of the English lords after the Duke of Windsor seized it. Across the Atlantic, it was Al Capone and his fellow gangsters who adopted it as their uniform.
At the end of the Second World War, the Double-breasted suit was gradually adopted by leading industrialists. From this point onwards, it becomes the ultimate expression of a certain business formalism.
It wasn’t until the 80s that it became a veritable fashion phenomenon, thanks to Giorgio Armani. Helped by Hollywood cinema, the Double-breasted jacket became popular, and Richard Gere in Paul Schrader’s American Gigolo (1980) became a tailoring icon who inspired a whole generation of young boys dreaming of fortune: the Golden Boys.
A veritable field of expression and exploration, the Double-breasted suit has been the genesis of a motley imagination – from British aristocracy to businessmen to gangsters – and has been constantly reinterpreted ever since.