TAILOR-MADE TROUSERS: 3 THINGS YOU CAN CUSTOMIZE TO STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD
Boris Vian used to say “It’s much harder to talk when you’re not dressed. Try being serious without Trousers!”
Don’t worry: when we take your Trousers measurements, we take you seriously!
If you sometimes come to us for a tailor-made suit or jacket, there are also those who, as summer approaches, pass through the door of 23 rue Pasquier to treat themselves to a pair of tailor-made trousers .
We all want to look taller, and Trousers in the right size are exactly what you need to elongate your figure.
Because elegance is all about the details, read this article, which won’t talk about pantacourt at all. We’ll leave that to Rafael Nadal.
It was while preparing this article on Trousers and Tailor-made trousers that we realized just how important trousers are in popular culture .
Starting with good King Dagobert, who’s got his knickers on backwards. Of course, when we talk about culottes, or sans-culotte later on, we’re referring to Trousers.
Whether it’s the military jacket that says rank, the lawyer’s dress that says prestige, or the doctor’s coat that says years of study, it’s the Trousers that complete the uniform .
Here’s how we’ll prepare your tailor-made Trousers, in 3 steps.
1/ USE: WHAT DO YOU NEED YOUR TAILOR-MADE TROUSERS FOR?
If we were Ferrari, we wouldn’t ask you this question when you walk into the store. We’d know why you’re here: not for school transport, not for mountain biking.
When it comes to choosing tailor-made Trousers, usage can be harder to discern.
Trousers for day or evening wear?
At Rives, we ask if you’d like Trousers for a wedding,
if you’re just getting back into sports and want Trousers that fit,
if you need some nice trousers to go to work in (perfect in a men’s wardrobe).
or if you’re looking for really fashionable Trousers to shine in.
We have a confession to make: at 90%, it’s easy to see who you’re dealing with.
We know why you’re here even before you tell us.
(With a 10% margin of error: we have some surprising customers, just like you!)
2/ WHAT’S THE MOOD, WHAT’S THE STYLE?
The conversation isn’t over, we don’t take your measurements straight away, we like to explore and find out more about you.
Our aim: to determine the mood, the style, to understand what you want to convey.
Self-confidence? Fun? Fashion first? Are you a fan of imposed figures?
It’s always interesting for us to hear our customers swear that “these trousers are to go with a tailor-made shirt only! “and to come across them 3 months later wearing a beautiful white t-shirt and sneakers!
It all starts with the discussion, and only then do we suggest a cut or fabric.
Sometimes the fabric before the cut, sometimes the cut before the fabric: it all depends on what you’re looking for.
When you talk to us about good summer Trousers, our first reaction will be to work on the fit, so you don’t feel too cramped. The fabric will come later.
When you talk to us about warm trousers for winter, the first thing that rings a bell is “warm”: if your legs are cold, then we’ll point you first to flannel, a good fabric for keeping warm in your tailor-made trousers.
As you can see, “tailor-made Trousers” includes ” tailor-made “. We adapt to your priorities.
Let me give you an example: last week, Anthony, a customer who has been with us since 2014, asked:
“I’m looking for very fitted Trousers for work, I like well-fitted trousers “.
In this case, with him, we’ll start by presenting the cut, then move on to the fabric.
(Because he wants to wear well-fitting trousers, we might suggest a wool twill in Super 120 or Super 150, a noble 100% wool material, which offers natural elasticity, where cotton is dry and won’t budge).
But we’re also here to go further and broaden your horizons.
For example, most customers who want Trousers for summer ask us for cotton pants.
The combination of material and season is logical, but our expertise enables us to offer cooler, more breathable wool Trousers (wool is thermoregulating).
We always try tohelp the customer find out more, to go beyond the initial idea.
Do better, do more: we adapt to our customers.
A pair of “nice Trousers” for a corporate lawyer is not necessarily the same as a pair of tailor-made pants for a communications director!
Once we’ve taken your measurements, we can really get into the process of customizing your Trousers!
3/ RIVES CUSTOMIZES YOUR TAILOR-MADE TROUSERS.
It’s systematic: people have no idea how many details can be personalized on a pair of Trousers.
We’ve listed 5 below, but you’ll discover many more in store!
Elastic belt, or dress belt with no visible buttons or belt loops.
What we call the belt here isn’t the crocodile belt, no. This is the horizontal band, the highest part of your Trousers.
It is often 4 centimetres long. At Rives, we like to play with proportions and often offer it at 4.5cm. It’s a small thing that makes a big difference, when you deliver this wider belt over Trousers with no belt loops and no visible buttons.
Customize the pockets on your Trousers
A reminder: between gentlemen, we don’t put anything in our Trousers pockets. In a pinch, a key and a credit card, nothing more, so as not to deform the pockets.
To make the pockets even more beautiful, we can cut them at an angle,
7 cm… to be specified to Sylvain
Should we use it? Aren’t we going to use it? It’s up to you to choose according to your customs. If, as a general rule, we try to keep the lines of your Trousers as clean as possible to make you look bigger and slimmer, we can of course add brace buttons for a pair of pants you’d wear in a particular setting.
But the Rives touch is that we sew them to the inside of the Trousers, to avoid the “clown strap” look with visible buttons!
Confidence: we’ve got a great collection of hard-wearing, durable buttons for you to choose from!
The case of clamps
The tabs are located on the side of your Trousers. They are used to adjust your Trousers without wearing a belt.
In concrete terms, we can offer you pieces we have in our wardrobe, which you can wear high-waisted on Mondays, and baggy on Tuesdays.
Two Trousers in one, it’s possible, even if it still confuses many of our customers.
Take a look at this example!
High-waist or low-waist Trousers?
Elegance is high-waisted.
We’re rarely dogmatic, but except for the slender 20-year-old surfer with long, slender legs over 1.82m, low-rise Trousers on men are rarely elegant.
With age comes love handles, and low-rise Trousers no longer fit everyone. On the other hand, the high waist is suitable for everyone.
On Trousers, the high waist lengthens the leg, so it slims.
The shirt doesn’t stick out, the Trousers don’t fall below the waist, so the point stays in place, and that changes your gait and your look: you’re comfortable, confident, and it shows .
No cupcake effect (you know, when the love handles spill out of the too-tight, too-low Trousers).
In terms of length, Trousers can be worked both up… and down!
Knowing where to break your Trousers is an art.
That’s why some customers come in with their favorite pairs of shoes or sneakers, and we work to cut them properly, so that they break well and lengthen the leg.
Sometimes we even cut the leg on the bias at the ankle (because the instep rises!).
They didn’t exist before, because we wore wider Trousers. Wide means “you could cut straight”.
Trousers are now worn a little tighter, and break at the instep: this forces us to find new cuts, new techniques to personalize your Trousers and adapt them to your morphology!