The post-war years marked a decisive turning point in the history of men’s suits. The 50s ushered in a period of unprecedented economic prosperity, the famous ” American Dream “, which had a profound influence on dress codes. This new era finally freed fashion from the restrictions imposed by the war years, allowing the emergence of a renewed masculine elegance. At Rives, we take you on a journey of discovery into the subtleties of 50’s suiting, and in particular the Double pleated Trousers, a typical feature of the era.
The golden age of menswear
The 50s brought a wind of freedom to America, marking a period of relative insouciance. The men’s wardrobe, while retaining its elegance, saw certain codes become more flexible:
- mismatched items are becoming more common,
- polo is gradually leaving the sports fields, and
- Trousers can be combined with knitwear.
Patterns and colors became more prevalent, and the mismatched Tuxedo with a colorful jacket made its appearance. The formal wardrobe gradually began to blend with the casual wardrobe. This natural evolution is reflected in the distinctive silhouette of the men’s suit. Jackets feature slightly padded shoulders and looser cuts.
Similarly, Trousers are becoming wider and proudly displaying their lapels. The cinema played an important role in disseminating these dress codes. Cary Grant, in
Codified elegance
This post-war period saw the birth of a precise codification of masculine elegance. The tailors of the era, freed from material constraints, established strict rules that defined the perfect suit. This meticulous attention to detail is rooted in the desire to create garments that not only sublimate the male figure, but also reflect a return to prosperity and social order.
Characteristic features
- Waist-length jackets inspired by Christian Dior’s ” New Look “, which revolutionized women’s fashion in 1947 and indirectly influenced men’s fashion.
- Loose-fitting double pleated Trousers, worn at the natural waist.
- Noble materials such as cashmere, tweed and flannel, finally available after wartime restrictions
Essential accessories
Men completed their Outfits with trilby hats and gradually abandoned the traditional Homburg. Ties became more fanciful, with distinctive patterns and finer cuts. This evolution was particularly noticeable in jazz clubs, where Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack gradually set new standards for masculine elegance.
American influence
American influence plays a major role in this evolution. The United States exerted a real fascination over the whole world. Esquire and GQ magazines, then in full expansion, helped to spread these new dress codes.
American film noir also contributed to this influence, with actors such as Humphrey Bogart embodying a style that was both sophisticated and casual. This duality is reflected in men’s wardrobes, where formal suits are now worn alongside more casual pieces. Specialized department stores for men began to appear, democratizing access to a refined wardrobe.
Rives: Contemporary heritage
In this tradition of sartorial excellence, we perpetuate these timeless codes through our creations at Rives. Our
Double pleats, characteristic of the period, sculpt the silhouette with refinement. As for lapels and pastes, they add that touch of authenticity that echoes post-war suits. This attention to detail is reminiscent of the meticulous care that tailors of the era lavished on each piece.
This piece embodies our vision of timeless elegance, where traditional craftsmanship meets modern aspirations. It bears witness to a time when menswear achieved a perfect balance between well-crafted structure and fluidity. A balance we strive to perpetuate in each of our creations, by adapting these historical codes to contemporary demands.
