{"id":40782,"date":"2026-06-29T14:20:38","date_gmt":"2026-06-29T12:20:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/know-how\/super-100s-120s-150s-what-these-numbers-mean-and-what-they-hide\/"},"modified":"2026-07-27T05:38:25","modified_gmt":"2026-07-27T03:38:25","slug":"super-100s-120s-150s-what-these-numbers-mean-and-what-they-hide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/en\/blog-en\/super-100s-120s-150s-what-these-numbers-mean-and-what-they-hide\/","title":{"rendered":"Super 100s, 120s, 150s: What These Numbers Mean (and What They Hide)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center horizontalfullmargin wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"font-size:20px\"><em>Super 100s, 120s, 150s, 180s: the numbers that appear on the labels of high-end suits suggest a hierarchy of quality\u2014the higher the number, the better. The reality is more nuanced. This number does not measure the quality of the wool, but rather the fineness of its fibers. And beyond a certain threshold, fineness becomes a trade-off.   <\/em><\/p>\n\n<div style=\"height:40px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-media-text has-media-on-the-right is-stacked-on-mobile is-image-fill-element\"><div class=\"wp-block-media-text__content\">\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading horizontalfullmargin\">&#8220;Super&#8221;: What This Number Really Measures<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>&#8220;Super,&#8221; followed by a number, is an indication of fiber fineness expressed in microns; it is not a measure of overall quality. The system was established by the International Wool Secretariat in 1968 to standardize the description of wool. The higher the number, the finer the fiber\u2014but fineness is not synonymous with quality; sometimes the opposite is true.  <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\">The Super number appears on virtually all high-end suit labels. Its original purpose was purely technical: to allow professional buyers to compare fabrics from different spinning mills on a common basis. The system, established in 1968 by the International Wool Secretariat (IWS, later renamed Woolmark), establishes a direct correspondence between the Super number and the maximum diameter of the fibers used in weaving.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\">Super 100s wool contains fibers with a diameter of no more than 18.75 microns. Each higher grade\u2014110s, 120s, 130s\u2014represents a reduction of approximately 0.5 microns. Super 130s corresponds to fibers of 17.25 microns or less; Super 180s, to 14.75 microns. By way of comparison, a human hair measures between 60 and 100 microns: even standard suit wool is three to six times finer. The \u201cSuper\u201d number does not indicate anything else. It does not indicate the origin of the wool, the weight of the fabric, or the quality of the weave.     <\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote horizontalfullmargin is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Frequently Asked Question: What exactly does the &#8220;Super&#8221; number on a suit label mean?<\/em><br\/>&#8220;Super&#8221; followed by a number indicates the maximum fiber diameter in microns. Super 100s = 18.75 microns; each increment of ten reduces the diameter by approximately 0.5 microns. The number measures only the fineness, not the overall quality of the fabric\u2014which also depends on weight, origin, finish, and weave.  <\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-color has-background\" style=\"color:#3b3b3b;background-color:#fafafa;border-radius:6px;padding-top:12px;padding-right:16px;padding-bottom:12px;padding-left:16px\"><strong>Tailor&#8217;s Tip:<\/strong> Check to make sure that a premium suit label includes a &#8220;Super&#8221; number. Its absence isn&#8217;t necessarily a bad sign (very high-quality English fabrics and some Italian ones don&#8217;t always include it), but it prevents a technical comparison between two fabrics. A brand that doesn\u2019t specify \u201cSuper,\u201d weight, or origin is harder to evaluate than one that provides all three pieces of information.  <\/p>\n<\/div><figure class=\"wp-block-media-text__media\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"732\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/rives-047-732x1024.jpg\" alt=\"RIVES label on black fabric\" class=\"wp-image-2696 size-full\" style=\"object-position:58% 61%\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/rives-047-732x1024.jpg 732w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/rives-047-800x1120.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/rives-047-357x500.jpg 357w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/rives-047-768x1075.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/rives-047-1097x1536.jpg 1097w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/rives-047.jpg 1286w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 732px) 100vw, 732px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-media-text is-stacked-on-mobile is-image-fill-element\"><figure class=\"wp-block-media-text__media\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/RIVES-4958_retoucheFA-copie-1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"RIVES Paris Tailor-made Clothing in a Modern Boutique\" class=\"wp-image-2724 size-full\" style=\"object-position:9% 82%\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/RIVES-4958_retoucheFA-copie-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/RIVES-4958_retoucheFA-copie-1-800x534.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/RIVES-4958_retoucheFA-copie-1-500x333.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/RIVES-4958_retoucheFA-copie-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/RIVES-4958_retoucheFA-copie-1.jpg 1348w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><div class=\"wp-block-media-text__content\">\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading horizontalfullmargin\">Microns and Feel: The Physical Interpretation of the Number<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Super 100s wool has fibers measuring approximately 18.75 microns; Super 150s wool, approximately 16.25 microns. This difference\u2014less than three microns\u2014radically changes the feel: the finer wool is softer, silkier, and drapes better. However, it loses some of its structure and durability.  <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\">A difference of just a few microns is enough to transform the feel of a fabric. Super 100s wool has a crisp, slightly rough texture that gives the jacket its structure. Super 130s wool becomes noticeably softer without losing its shape. Starting with Super 150s, your hand literally glides over the fabric\u2014a texture close to silk, with an immediate fluidity. Beyond Super 180s, the fabric feels almost like pure cashmere.    <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\">This gradual softness is clearly reflected in the drape. The finer the fiber, the more the fabric falls in soft, fluid, almost liquid folds. Super 100s to 120s wools hold their shape well; Super 150s and higher drape more freely, and some very fine fabrics lose their shape as soon as they are sat on or creased. The difference is immediately apparent to the eye, right from the first try-on. Choosing a Super grade also means choosing a silhouette.    <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Frequently Asked Question: How many microns, according to Super?<\/em><br\/>Super 80s: up to 19.75 microns. Super 100s: 18.75. Super 110s: 18.25. Super 120s: 17.75. Super 130s: 17.25. Super 150s: 16.25. Super 180s: 14.75. Super 200s: 13.75. Each ten-unit increment reduces the fiber diameter by approximately half a micron. Beyond Super 200s, the fibers become so fine that they are often blended with other materials (cashmere, silk, vicu\u00f1a) to maintain a minimum level of structure.         <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-color has-background\" style=\"color:#3b3b3b;background-color:#fafafa;border-radius:6px;padding-top:12px;padding-right:16px;padding-bottom:12px;padding-left:16px\"><strong>Tailor\u2019s tip:<\/strong> To feel the difference between two fabric weights in a store, ask to touch two fabrics side by side that have the same weight but are Super-rated differently\u2014a Super 110s and a Super 150s, for example. Your hands will immediately sense the difference in silkiness and smoothness, whereas a verbal description remains abstract. This hands-on comparison is worth more than any sales pitch.  <\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-media-text has-media-on-the-right is-stacked-on-mobile is-image-fill-element\"><div class=\"wp-block-media-text__content\">\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading horizontalfullmargin\">The Inverted Curve: Sophistication vs. Durability<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>The finer the fiber, the more delicate it is. Super 180s wool feels wonderful to the touch but wears out more quickly, wrinkles more easily, and is less suitable for everyday wear. The finest wools aren\u2019t the most practical: they\u2019re more suited to formal wear than everyday suits.  <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\">The mechanical strength of a wool yarn decreases as its fineness increases. A 14.75-micron yarn\u2014Super 180s\u2014is physically more fragile than an 18.75-micron yarn. In practical terms, this fragility manifests in three ways: more pronounced wrinkling (the fiber does not regain its shape as well), accelerated wear at points of friction (elbows, knees, and the seat of trousers), and increased sensitivity to moisture and the heat of dry cleaning.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\">A Super 180s suit worn every day may begin to show these signs after one or two seasons: the fabric starts to shine in areas of friction, creases deepen, and the sleeves retain the marks of repeated wear. A Super 110s suit, worn just as often, will last several years without these flaws. The rule is consistent: very fine-count fabrics are best suited for occasional wear, not for a suit worn three times a week.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Frequently Asked Question: How long will a Super 180s suit last with daily wear?<\/em><br\/>It\u2019s unlikely to last more than one or two seasons without visible signs of wear. Very fine-weight fabrics are designed for occasional wear\u2014ceremonies, special events, and formal attire. For a suit worn several times a week, sticking to the Super 100s to 130s range significantly extends the garment\u2019s lifespan.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-color has-background\" style=\"color:#3b3b3b;background-color:#fafafa;border-radius:6px;padding-top:12px;padding-right:16px;padding-bottom:12px;padding-left:16px\"><strong>Tailor\u2019s tip:<\/strong> A Super 150s suit\u2014or higher\u2014deserves a second suit to wear on a rotating basis. Letting a high-end suit \u201cbreathe\u201d between wears\u201424 to 48 hours on a shaped hanger\u2014cuts wear and tear in half and preserves the fabric. This simple practice often doubles the lifespan of a fine fabric suit.  <\/p>\n<\/div><figure class=\"wp-block-media-text__media\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_8076-683x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-37990 size-full\" style=\"object-position:50% 32%\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_8076-683x1024.jpeg 683w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_8076-333x500.jpeg 333w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_8076-768x1152.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_8076-1024x1536.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_8076-400x600.jpeg 400w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_8076-600x900.jpeg 600w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_8076-800x1200.jpeg 800w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_8076.jpeg 1204w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-media-text is-stacked-on-mobile is-image-fill-element\"><figure class=\"wp-block-media-text__media\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/IMG_4502-1-scaled-1024x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"Navy blue suit, white-and-blue striped shirt, red tie, tailor-made by RIVES Paris.\" class=\"wp-image-26551 size-full\" style=\"object-position:36% 24%\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/IMG_4502-1-scaled-1024x1024.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/IMG_4502-1-scaled-500x500.jpeg 500w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/IMG_4502-1-scaled-150x150.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/IMG_4502-1-scaled-768x768.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/IMG_4502-1-scaled-1536x1536.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/IMG_4502-1-scaled-2048x2048.jpeg 2048w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/IMG_4502-1-scaled-50x50.jpeg 50w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/IMG_4502-1-scaled-800x800.jpeg 800w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/IMG_4502-1-100x100.jpeg 100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><div class=\"wp-block-media-text__content\">\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading horizontalfullmargin\">The sweet spot for everyday wear: Super 110s to 130s<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>For an everyday suit, the Super 110s to 130s range offers the best balance between a fine feel, elegant drape, and true durability. This is the range in which the majority of high-quality wardrobe fabrics fall, and the one RIVES recommends for a first signature suit. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\">The Super 110s to 130s range\u2014corresponding to fibers measuring 18.25 to 17.25 microns\u2014accounts for virtually all high-end professional suit fabrics. The fabric feels very comfortable against the skin, and its drape remains excellent; the drape combines structure and suppleness without becoming shapeless. The leading Italian (Loro Piana, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Reda) and British (Dormeuil, Holland &amp; Sherry, Scabal) mills produce their most structured collections within this range.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\">The cost of a Super 110s to 130s fabric remains reasonable given its performance: significantly lower than that of a Super 150s fabric, while often offering equal or superior wearability for everyday use. It is this range that forms the basis for most of RIVES\u2019 recommendations for a first tailor-made suit\u2014whether for the office, a versatile formal occasion, or travel. Fabric choices are therefore based on weight and season (see the article on <a class=\"liennoir\" href=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/blog\/style\/flanelle-fresco-serge-quel-tissu-choisir-paris\/\">flannel, fresco, and twill<\/a>) rather than on the pursuit of the highest Super number.   <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Frequently Asked Question: Which Super should I choose for an everyday office outfit?<\/em><br\/>Choose between Super 110s and 130s for use three to five times a week. This range offers a premium feel, a well-defined drape, and a lifespan of eight to fifteen years with proper care. Going beyond this range offers only marginal improvement in tactile comfort, at the cost of increased fragility and a significant additional expense.  <\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-media-text has-media-on-the-right is-stacked-on-mobile is-image-fill-element\"><div class=\"wp-block-media-text__content\">\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading horizontalfullmargin\">Beyond Super 150s: Luxury, Formal Wear, Blends<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Super 150s to 200s wools are intended for other uses: formal occasions, special events, and casual wardrobe pieces. For wools above Super 200s, manufacturers often blend the wool with cashmere, silk, or vicu\u00f1a\u2014both to preserve softness and to add qualities that wool alone cannot achieve. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\">Very fine-count fabrics have their place. A suit for <a class=\"liennoir\" href=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/en\/tailor-made\/tuxedos\/\">a civil wedding or a tuxedo<\/a> worn three or four times a year fully justifies a Super 150s or 160s fabric, whose fluid drape is well-suited to evening occasions and whose occasional wear does not reveal the fabric\u2019s fragility. Loro Piana, Cerruti, and Dormeuil offer collections designed specifically for these purposes, often in limited editions.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\">Beyond Super 200s, manufacturers enter exceptional territory where wool alone reaches its mechanical limits. To maintain the fabric\u2019s structure, high-end spinning mills blend wool with other precious fibers\u2014cashmere for softness and drape, silk for luster and suppleness, and vicu\u00f1a for the rarest compositions. These blends are not a compromise: they are the only way to produce a fabric suitable for use at these levels of fineness. Suits made from these fabrics are more akin to works of art than to everyday wardrobe staples.   <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Frequently Asked Question: When should you choose Super 150s wool or higher?<\/em><br\/>For a suit worn on special occasions\u2014weddings, formal events, or as part of a formal wardrobe\u2014where feel and drape take precedence over durability. For a suit worn a few times a year for special occasions, a Super 150s fabric makes sense; beyond that, the choice becomes more about aesthetics than practicality. <\/p>\n<\/div><figure class=\"wp-block-media-text__media\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"731\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/RIVES-STTROPEZ-0740@RaphaelLugassy-731x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Tailor-made white suit jacket by RIVES Paris\" class=\"wp-image-18620 size-full\" style=\"object-position:48% 35%\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/RIVES-STTROPEZ-0740@RaphaelLugassy-731x1024.jpg 731w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/RIVES-STTROPEZ-0740@RaphaelLugassy-scaled-800x1120.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/RIVES-STTROPEZ-0740@RaphaelLugassy-357x500.jpg 357w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/RIVES-STTROPEZ-0740@RaphaelLugassy-768x1075.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/RIVES-STTROPEZ-0740@RaphaelLugassy-1097x1536.jpg 1097w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/RIVES-STTROPEZ-0740@RaphaelLugassy-1463x2048.jpg 1463w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/RIVES-STTROPEZ-0740@RaphaelLugassy-scaled.jpg 1829w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 731px) 100vw, 731px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-media-text is-stacked-on-mobile is-image-fill-element\"><figure class=\"wp-block-media-text__media\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"722\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/collection-133-scaled-722x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Tailor-made beige wool coat by RIVES Paris with a striped tie\" class=\"wp-image-35126 size-full\" style=\"object-position:46% 36%\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/collection-133-scaled-722x1024.jpg 722w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/collection-133-scaled-353x500.jpg 353w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/collection-133-scaled-768x1089.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/collection-133-scaled-1083x1536.jpg 1083w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/collection-133-scaled-1444x2048.jpg 1444w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/collection-133-scaled-800x1135.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/collection-133-scaled.jpg 1805w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 722px) 100vw, 722px\" \/><\/figure><div class=\"wp-block-media-text__content\">\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading horizontalfullmargin\">Beyond &#8220;Super&#8221;: Weight, Origin, Finish<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>The \u201cSuper\u201d number says nothing about the fabric\u2019s weight, the origin of the wool, or the finishing process\u2014three factors that are at least as important when evaluating a suit fabric, and which reputable brands always specify in addition to the \u201cSuper\u201d number. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\">The weight of a fabric, measured in grams per square meter, influences the drape just as much as its fineness. A fabric weighing 220 to 250 grams is a summer fabric\u2014fresco wool, mohair, or lightweight blends. Between 280 and 320 grams, we enter the transitional season range, the most versatile category. Above 320 grams, we move into winter fabrics\u2014dense flannel, sturdy fabrics, and structured woolens. This weight classification is independent of the \u201cSuper\u201d rating: a Super 130s fabric can weigh 240 grams for summer or 320 grams for winter.    <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\">The origin of the wool also matters. Australian merino remains the market benchmark\u2014long fibers, consistent fineness, and carefully managed farming. New Zealand also produces very high-quality wool, sometimes with specific textural nuances. More rare, Patagonian wool provides certain batches prized for tuxedo fabrics. The finishing process\u2014combing, polishing, and fulling\u2014ultimately distinguishes two fabrics of the same Super and weight: a poorly finished fabric loses its luster and structure after just a few cleanings. The supplier\u2019s name (Loro Piana, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Reda, Dormeuil, Holland &amp; Sherry, Scabal) remains the most reliable indicator of the rigor with which these three parameters are combined; <a class=\"liennoir\" href=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/blog\/savoir-faire\/la-saga-des-tissus-rives-une-exploration-au-coeur-des-matieres\/\">the story of RIVES fabrics<\/a> details this approach in depth.     <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-color has-background\" style=\"color:#3b3b3b;background-color:#fafafa;border-radius:6px;padding-top:12px;padding-right:16px;padding-bottom:12px;padding-left:16px\"><strong>Tailor&#8217;s tip:<\/strong> Before choosing a fabric, ask for three pieces of information that must be clearly provided: the Super number, the weight, and the supplier&#8217;s name. A label that includes all three of these details allows for an informed decision; a label that lacks any of them falls short of the standards of premium tailor-made tailoring. <\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n<div style=\"height:40px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading horizontalfullmargin\">Conclusion: Thinness is not a quality<\/h2>\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>The fineness of a wool is just one factor among many\u2014and can even become an obstacle when looking for a suit for everyday wear. Choosing a wool means balancing factors such as texture, drape, durability, weight, and intended use. The Super number is just a starting point.  <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-justified wp-block-paragraph\">The tendency to buy the highest-end \u201cSuper\u201d option is fueled by certain brands that use it as a selling point. The reality of high-quality tailor-made clothing is more nuanced: a reputable tailor advises their client based on the intended use, how often the suit will be worn, the client\u2019s body type, and their budget\u2014and the majority of their recommendations fall within the Super 110s to 130s range, which offers the best long-term value. Very high-grade Super wool does exist and has its place, reserved for occasional or formal wear. To delve deeper into what truly determines the value of a suit, the articles on <a class=\"liennoir\" href=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/en\/blog-en\/why-a-tailor-made-outfit-makes-all-the-difference-and-what-ready-to-wear-will-never-fix\/\">tailor-made suits<\/a> and <a class=\"liennoir\" href=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/en\/blog-en\/traditional-interfacing-or-fusible-interfacing-the-invisible-detail-that-determines-a-jackets-durability\/\">interlining<\/a> expand on this exploration of the invisible layers of a well-made garment.   <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"horizontalfullmargin has-text-color has-background\" style=\"color:#3b3b3b;background-color:#f7f7f7;border-radius:6px;padding-top:12px;padding-right:16px;padding-bottom:12px;padding-left:16px\"><strong>Final tip:<\/strong> Before ordering your next suit, ask your tailor three questions about the fabric\u2014 <em>\u201cWhat Super, what weight, and what supplier? What purpose does this range serve? And what trade-offs would there be if I wanted to go with a higher fineness?\u201d \u201d<\/em> A tailor who clearly answers all three questions\u2014without automatically pushing for the highest number\u2014is a tailor who has your best interests at heart. An argument that reduces the choice to just the Super rating overlooks a quarter of the factors that ultimately determine a suit\u2019s true quality. <\/p>\n\n<div style=\"height:40px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns fullgap horizontalfullmargin is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-52daf463 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-content-justification-left is-layout-flex wp-container-core-buttons-is-layout-b192c3d7 wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button is-style-outline liennoir boutoncta is-style-outline--1\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link has-black-color has-white-background-color has-text-color has-background has-link-color wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.rives-paris.com\/en\/tailor-made\/suits\/\" style=\"border-radius:0px\">Our Tailor-made Suits<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator aligncenter has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-content-justification-right is-layout-flex wp-container-core-buttons-is-layout-b507c051 wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button is-style-outline lienbooxi is-style-outline--2\" id=\"bouton-rendez-vous-unique\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link has-black-color has-white-background-color has-text-color has-background has-link-color wp-element-button\" style=\"border-radius:0px\">BOOK AN APPOINTMENT<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div style=\"height:70px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Super 100s, 120s, 150s, 180s: the numbers that appear on the labels of high-end suits suggest a hierarchy of quality\u2014the higher the number, the better. The reality is more nuanced. This number does not measure the quality of the wool, but rather the fineness of its fibers. And beyond a certain threshold, fineness becomes a [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":26,"featured_media":40783,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[316,82],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-40782","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog-en","category-know-how"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Super 100s, 120s, 150s: What These Numbers Mean<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Super 100s, 120s, 150s, 180s: These numbers refer to the fineness of the wool, not its quality. 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